XWORLD AFRICA tour diary Stage 22

THE LONG WAY HOME – West Africa route
A billboard proclaiming “Distance is no longer a problem” greets new arrivals in Tanzania – let’s wait and see how true this turns out to be!
We set off early in the morning on a route that leads through both the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the Republic of the Congo, all the way back to Germany – given the questionable road conditions and rudimentary infrastructure, a real adventure on one of the wildest routes through Africa.

We make the most of the time to purchase supplies and equipment in the well-stocked shops in Dar es Salaam while also enjoying the views out over the sea.

We will try to report back daily and, where possible, to also upload a few photos.

Crossing our fingers can’t hurt though either ...

Day 1:

02.09: Dar es Salam–Mbeya, 850 km, 15.5 hrs – a good showdown for this stage ... Poor roads and countless lorries are the norm on the cross-country routes in Tanzania. The police checkpoints that prevent a smooth journey are rather bothersome today.
We look forward to arriving in Zambia tomorrow ...

Day 2:

03.09: Mbeya–Serenje, 730 km, 12 hrs

Border crossing into Zambia. The new customs building was inaugurated last year. The outcome: even more bureaucracy and stations – an absolute dream. Tomorrow we cross into the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Day 3:

04.09: Serenje–Lubumbashi, 580 km, 13.5 hrs

We have around 350 km to the Congolese border to “warm up”. We take a small detour with less traffic and rather cute bribe requests.

When we turn back onto the main road, the countless uniformed police become a little tedious (brief aside: the péage road toll for the almost 100 km to Lubumbashi was $50 per pick-up – there was a bucket at the station full of €50 and €100 notes ...). They have no qualms in demanding money as the only solution for fictitious problems, which are at times amusing. However, their frequency every few kilometres makes them rather annoying and simply alarming – what on earth is going on here?! We are curious what the rest of the country will bring ...

Day 4:

05.09: Somewhere in Congo, approx. 499 km
We reach the first quality tarmac, then travel along a good track through the rest of Congo as one would imagine it – far, far away ...

It is simply unbelievable – but also very good – that a country with such rudimentary infrastructure still exists.

Day 5:

06.09: 220 km, 10 hrs (so far)
We fill up on dirty diesel from canisters in Kamina.

The condition of the N1 national road vacillates between poor to mostly very poor.Deep ruts, rocky sections and wild undergrowth.
Congo entirely as we imagined it
We resolve to drive a little out of the “town” to set up camp.

Day 6:

Today, we have the morning off. A few of us set off early for Murchison Falls to observe the wildlife. The Nile that is normally several hundred metres wide narrows here to pass through a gap just seven metres in width. We meet up again later in the day for a boat trip up the Nile to see the huge crocodiles and hippos close up. Our onward drive leads through dense jungle out of the park as we follow the river’s course east towards Lake Victoria, which is considered the source of the Nile.

We overnight in the wonderful The Haven lodge with views over the Nile rapids. We only get to bed late again tonight.

Day 7:

Mbuji-Mayi–Kananga and slightly further, 200 km
The supposedly good road turns out to be a sandy track with deep lorry ruts. We get struck four times. Endless checkpoints slow our progress: we spend over two hours at checkpoints alone in Nanana – police, immigration, transport authority, provincial border crossing, etc.
On a positive note, we are able to purchase two bottles of red wine as well as to find a functioning petrol station.

Day 8:

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Day 9:

10.09: Kananga–Kinshasa, 850 km, 15 hrs

We follow a well-surfaced makeshift track beside the road works and even travel on the new road shortly after. We make good progress. Unfortunately, the formalities set us back several hours – all information must be recorded in several different places. At some point, the tarmac begins and we reach Kikwit at 2 p.m. on our last drips of diesel.

We resolve to try to reach Kinshasa and so head west, navigating our way around broken-down lorries and other obstacles on the well-tarmacked road with few checkpoints.

We arrive at our hotel on our Congo odyssey at 10:30 pm.

Day 10:

11.09
We have a lie-in, stock up on supplies and have breakfast for once.
In the coming two days, we want to cover just 10 km (as the crow flies) to Brazzaville on the other side of the River Congo.
It takes us the rest of the day to travel the good 300 km to the Luozi ferry.
There’s a lively hustle and bustle on the quay, but absolutely no sign of the ferry. We wait on the beach beside the River Congo.

Day 11:

12.09: Brazzaville, approx. 300 km
Several cars are already waiting when we return to the ferry port in the morning. We get the feeling it is going to take a while. But the ferry staff remember us from the previous day and we are allowed on the first ferry.

Everything goes smoothly at the border crossing, too.

It really is amazing how different two neighbouring countries can be – the “small” Congo seems far more advanced.

Day 12:

13.09: Brazzaville–equator, 620 km, 9 hrs
The day starts well: a police escort accompanies us along the brand new motorway heading north. We then make good progress on flawless, almost entirely tarmacked roads. Unfortunately the corruption increases exponentially the further we travel from the capital city – to our annoyance! In the evening, we make a short stop at what must be the world’s most unspectacular equator monument.
We set up camp in the bush.

Day 13:

14.09: Equator–Cameroonian border, 650 km, 11 hrs

After a brief stop to stock up on supplies in Ouésso, we travel along a new tarmacked road towards the border with Cameroon. The route leads through untouched rainforests and is the scenic highlight of the tour so far. We are thrilled when the tarmac turns into a narrow track through the jungle. A certain degree of control mania becomes apparent upon entering Cameroon. The Amaroks are searched several times. All for our safety – you know, Boko Haram and all that.

We camp on a free spot in the bush.

Day 14:

15.09: Cameroonian border–Yaoundé, 450 km, 11 hrs
The route continues along a narrow track through beautiful rainforests. The onset of rain makes the drive even more interesting. A tree branch has fallen down a slope and blocked the road, but we are able to detour through the bush. Unfortunately, the control mania continues as we travel north. Customs, police, military police, forest authorities, traffic police, local police ... All are very concerned about our safety and must therefore at all costs check our paperwork and inspect the contents of the vehicles – mostly entirely haphazardly. There are about 20 different checkpoints on the 400 km stretch. At some point, it goes from being amusing to simply annoying and we are relieved when we leave Cameroon behind us a short time later. Ironically, the conference of police chiefs of Central Africa happens to be taking place in our hotel in Yaoundé ...

Day 15:

16.09: Yaoundé–Mamfe, 500 km, 10 hrs

A relaxing day of driving through the hills and mountains to the north of the capital. There are still a lot of checkpoints, but they are significantly friendlier and less complicated; sometimes we are even simply waved through. We spend the night in a hotel complex that exudes the morbid charm of a forgotten temple.

Day 16:

17.09–18.09: approx. 1,100 km, Nigeria transit
Because the embassy in Berlin has deemed the security situation in the country too dangerous, we were almost unable to obtain a visa.
The truth is, though, that you are far more likely to die in a traffic accident in Nigeria than to be kidnapped by Boko Haram! Many of the vehicles only move thanks to the sheer willpower and distinct death wish of their drivers. Scrap metal, diesel smoke, latent aggression; countless checkpoints and corruption. The head of immigration at the small border crossing to Benin displays clear character traits of Mr Kurtz: laughing, grumbling and talking in monologue, he slowly processes our passports. Where is the hidden camera?!
We reach the historic town of Abomey after dark. We are now one day ahead of our schedule and wish to explore Benin a little.

Day 17:

19.09: 440 km, 6.5 hrs
Natitingou
In the morning, we visit the ruins of the Kingdom of Dahomey and also obtain vehicle insurance for West Africa.
On the tarmacked road north, we navigate round lorries and deep potholes. At the hotel, we attentively follow the developments in Burkina Faso. Tomorrow we also want to visit the nearby border during a trip to a national park ...

Day 18:

20.09
Sunday excursion – no walk in the park ...
After several in part very tiring days, we want to go on a relaxed trip to a nearby national park today.

It is the rainy season though: water, mud and no animals.
We attempt to head north across the park, but rapidly find ourselves almost up to the door handles in a lake. There is no way through!

We lose a number plate and one Amarok sinks deep into the mud during the search. The reward: 5 impalas, 4 slightly larger antelope and 1 baboon. And good news: the border appears to be open.

Day 19:

21.09: Benin–Burkina Faso–Benin, 500 km, 11 hrs
Wrong place at the wrong time ...
After monitoring the situation in Burkina Faso for three days – with the latest reports being positive – we drove to the border.
The border is open and we are told at the checkpoints that the situation is quiet. We drive into the country without any problem.
At the entrance to a small town, the police checkpoint advises us to detour around the town centre due to a demonstration.

While driving along a side street, an angry mob wielding stones and clubs suddenly appears above us. Soothing words and the reassurance that we are tourists falls on deaf ears. Windows are smashed and we are chased by a hoard of motorcycles. Three vehicles manage to escape back towards Benin. Slightly calmer people bring a further vehicle to a military police checkpoint. The final Amarok seeks refuge in a police station.
While we wait for the situation to calm down, we notice a convoy of tanks setting off for Ouagadougou, which lies 200 kilometres away.
When we return to Benin a few hours later, everyone both in Burkina Faso and in Benin is very shocked. Our Amaroks were apparently taken for military vehicles ...
We gather at Hotel Tata again. The shock slowly begins to subside.
We resolve to continue our journey on to Togo.

Day 20:

21.09: Benin–Burkina Faso–Benin, 500 km, 11 hrs
Wrong place at the wrong time ...
After monitoring the situation in Burkina Faso for three days – with the latest reports being positive – we drove to the border.
The border is open and we are told at the checkpoints that the situation is quiet. We drive into the country without any problem.
At the entrance to a small town, the police checkpoint advises us to detour around the town centre due to a demonstration.

While driving along a side street, an angry mob wielding stones and clubs suddenly appears above us. Soothing words and the reassurance that we are tourists falls on deaf ears. Windows are smashed and we are chased by a hoard of motorcycles. Three vehicles manage to escape back towards Benin. Slightly calmer people bring a further vehicle to a military police checkpoint. The final Amarok seeks refuge in a police station.
While we wait for the situation to calm down, we notice a convoy of tanks setting off for Ouagadougou, which lies 200 kilometres away.
When we return to Benin a few hours later, everyone both in Burkina Faso and in Benin is very shocked. Our Amaroks were apparently taken for military vehicles ...
We gather at Hotel Tata again. The shock slowly begins to subside.
We resolve to continue our journey on to Togo.

Day 21:

22.09: Northern inlands–Lomé, 550km 11h
Togo eco drive We tape up the smashed windscreen and head south.
The border crossing is rather tedious, but then Togo surprises with absolutely no checkpoints. Finally a country with no control mania!
The roads are also very good. Unfortunately, our window repair doesn’t hold for very long at almost 80 km/h. The Zebra manages average consumption of exactly 7 l/100 km; the others slightly more. And yet we make slow progress and must concentrate to cover the final kilometres in the dark. We are rewarded with a tasty dinner.

Day 22:

23.09: Lomé–Elmina (Ghana), 370 km, 10 hrs

After an early breakfast, we travel with no visa and an uneasy feeling to the Ghanaian border, directly on the outskirts of Lomé.

Ghana clearly wishes to set itself clearly apart from its francophone neighbours and combines African border formalities with fingerprint scanners, cameras, passport scanners and the obligatory entry form. Fortunately for us, the head of the immigration authorities is prepared to issue us with a 72-hour emergency visa for $ 100 – to his personal benefit.We continue west on well-surfaced roads. Ghana appears to be popular with the international aid organisations – does this perhaps have something to do with the fact that English is spoken here?

The variety of different interpretations of Christian churches are also impressive. We painstakingly make our way around a road bypassing the capital city of Accra and reach our beautiful resort directly beside the beach after sundown. We are almost overwhelmed by the offerings here that range from cocktails to a golf course.

Day 23:

24.09: Elmina–Ghanaian border, 250 km, 8 hrs

It is just a short drive to the border and then on to our destination of the day, Abidjan in Ivory Coast. Melina is flying in from Germany with a package of windows and the VW importer is on standby with his team. Things turn out a little differently though.

We reach the border early. When we explain our visa problem (we don’t have one for Ivory Coast either), the nice Ghanaian border officer drives me to the other side of the border so we can find out about the formalities there.

Unfortunately, the outcome is unsatisfactory: entry is not possible without a visa; ideally, we should return to Accra. However, this would mean that our emergency visa would expire and we would also have to extend this, which would in turn mean several days of waiting and running between different authorities.

After several phone calls, a border officer offers to drive to Abidjan with our passports to obtain a visa for us from the immigration authorities there. We would receive them within 24 hours.

So we hand over the passports and the “special visa fees” and seek out a basic camp on the coast.

Day 24:

25.09: Ghanaian border–Abidjan, 225 km, 6 hrs

We return to the border feeling a little tense – will it have worked out? Lo and behold, though, our passports are in fact already waiting at the Ghanaian border checkpoint with an approval number for a visa. After the usual slightly tedious formalities, we enter Ivory Coast – still without a visa stamp though, as we must obtain this from the immigration authorities. Do such creative solutions also exist in Europe, I wonder?

In Abidjan, we leave the damaged vehicles at VW and drive to a guest house on the outskirts of the city. A few hours of relaxation do us a world of good.

Day 25:

26.09: Abidjan–Korhogo, 610 km, 10 hrs

The following morning, we only have to wait a short while for the Amaroks to be ready to go again. The garage foreman has even managed to find a front windscreen somewhere! We drive to Yamoussoukro along a perfectly-surfaced motorway. Some years ago now, the country’s president made his birth town the country’s capital and spruced it up with a number of unusual architectural gems. The undisputed highlight is undoubtedly the replica St. Peter’s Basilica – true to the original size!

Further to the north, we find a basic hotel shortly before the border with Mali. Some rooms have lights, some functioning showers, some air conditioning – it’s the usual room roulette!

Day 26:

27.09: Korhogo–Bamako (Mali), 620 km, 12 hrs

Another border, another day of queuing and waiting until the details of six vehicles and nine people have been entered in various different books and computers. The scenery changes dramatically and the vegetation becomes sparser as we enter the Sahel.

In the evening, we reach Bamako, which is rightly known as one of the most chaotic African capitals. We actually wanted to arrive here on 23 September, so are now three days behind schedule. Not bad for almost 3,000 extra kilometres!

Day 27:

28.09: Bamako–Kayes, 620 km, 10 hrs

During an early-morning visit to the VW dealer, Melina magically acquires new brake pads for the Lion. Our destination for the day is the border with Senegal. After over 600 kilometre, we reach Kayes. The absence of tourists due to the risk of al-Qaeda attacks and kidnappings is clearly discernible. The hotels are falling into disrepair, the restaurants are closed and the town as a whole exudes a somewhat depressing air. A power cut and ankle-deep water due to a storm do little to improve the mood.

We have crackers and beer for dinner.

Day 28:

29.09: Kayes–Saint Louis (or not....)–Dakar, 730 km, 15 hrs

Today, we want to get back on schedule by taking a short cut on the route through Senegal. That plan lasts about ten minutes though, until the fan belt on our organisation Amarok snaps. No problem – a replacement is soon found. But unfortunately the vehicle simply does not want to start. Things look even bleaker after consulting the specialists back in Germany: parts may have got into the drive belt housing and caused engine damage. There is still a small chance that it might just be that a sensor has been affected, but only a garage will be able to tell us that. So instead of a relaxed day of driving to the coast, we have the vehicle towed to Dakar.

The Leopard plays scouting vehicle; the Lion takes care of the towing – a seemingly endless odyssey through Senegal lies ahead of us. We arrive on the African west coast thoroughly exhausted in the evening.

Day 29:

30.09: Dakar–Saint Louis, 250 km, 4.5 hrs

Most of us get a lie in and a chance to relax. Early in the morning, we tow the Amarok through Dakar. After 2.5 hours, the paperwork to leave the vehicle with VW is complete and the repair work can finally begin. We wait, receive a very vague statement on the inspection outcome, and begin planning how we are going to continue on without our Amarok. The mood is significantly dampened.

We are all the more amazed when the Amarok is driven out onto the garage forecourt. I have never been so happy to see a moving vehicle!Though it has lost power and a couple of orange warning light flash on the dashboard, there are no nasty sounds – it will manage the laughable remaining 5,000 km after all.

After a quick lunch at the hotel, we finally head north. So far on this journey, we have travelled further east to west than we have north towards home.

In Saint Louis, we find a very nice little lodge with tasty food – the perfect place to bring the day to a pleasant close.

Day 31:

01.10: Saint Louis–Nouadhibou, 800 km, 14 hrs

Unfortunately, we were unlucky today too: the border crossing on the Senegal River dam is closed due to flooding. So instead of uncomplicated and rapid entry into Mauritania, we take the ferry to Rosso, with all its wheeler-dealers, accomplices and corrupt officials.

It proves a rather unpleasant start to the day and means we can also forget our plan of making it through Mauritania in one day.

Then we drive, drive, drive. To ensure this is not too easy, we are stopped at countless checkpoints “for our own safety” and our details are recorded. The locals pass through without being stopped.

Shortly before Nouadhibou, we come across a new kitesurfing camp and end a long and tough day with a very late dinner.

Day 32:

02.10: Nouadhibou–Laâyoune, 900 km, 14 hrs

When the customs officer with the official stamp finally returns to his desk, entry into Mauritania’s meanwhile well-developed border complex goes quickly. We are all the more surprised by the lack of structure in the mine-filled no man’s land in the Western Sahara. Shells of cars and tracks – there is nothing more in the strip that is a couple of kilometres wide.

On the Moroccan side is another impressive border checkpoint. The to and fro between the different authorities is made no less pleasant by a sandstorm and the oppressive heat. Luckily, a petrol station with cheap fuel and a shop stocked with cool beverages await immediately beyond the barrier.

We continue north. We actually only want to make it as far as Boujdour, but when the atmosphere becomes noticeably hostile and youths begin throwing stones, we decide to continue on to Laâyoune, which lies 200 km away.

Day 33:

03.10: Laâyoune–Marrakesh, 870 km, 12 hrs

A surprise awaits at breakfast time: German UN soldiers are also staying at our hotel. They are thrilled to receive a visit on the twenty-fifth anniversary of German reunification.

Things go smoothly today – at least they do until our Amarok’s fan belt snaps. At temperatures of up to 40 degrees, it is no fun changing this in the baking heat. The Lion once again acts as the tow truck to the nearest town and we replace the fan belt in the shade. Luckily, the engine then starts up again.From Agadir, we take the new motorway through the Atlas Mountains to Marrakesh. We are all rather tired by now. A delicious meal makes up for the hard day.

Day 34:

04.10: Marrakesh–Málaga, 800 km, 12 hrs

We want to go home and Michael needs to catch a flight from Málaga. We set off completely exhausted at 4 a.m. Unfortunately yesterday’s dinner does not agree with all of us, but we hang in there and arrive at the new port in Tangier at 10 a.m.

For once, the formalities go very smoothly, but then the ferry transporting Michael’s vehicle departs later than planned and he misses his flight.

We meet up again at the port in Algeciras – today’s destination of Málaga is just 150 km away. We actually make it there before dusk and enjoy a few relaxing hours with tapas, wine and some excellent food.

Day 35:

05.10: Málaga–Pierrelatte, 1,500 km, 13 hrs

A marathon day lies ahead. Because we are slow travelling on the motorway in convoy, we arrange to meet for dinner in a hotel to the south of Lyons. Somehow, having to cover 1,500 kilometres in one day no longer fazes us.

The Leopard arrives at the hotel first; a few glasses later and the Buffalo arrives too, along with our trusty but clearly stricken XW91. A few more glasses and the Lion and Zebra put up outside. We exchange amusing anecdotes from the day’s drive.

Day 36:

06.10: Pierrelatte–Fulda, 960 km, 10 hrs Letting things roll ...

After five adventure-packed weeks and over 12 months and more than 50,000 kilometres on the HansaFlex XWorld Africa tour, we are finally on the home straight! And yet it is not going to be so simple: heavy rain and traffic jams in Lyons and through the entire Rhine valley mean we make slow progress. We still manage to reach the VW centre in Fulda at the agreed time of 6 p.m. though.

Thank you to the fantastic crew, sponsors, partners and all colleagues, who made this extraordinary adventure possible!