XWORLD AFRICA tour diary Stage 7

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Day 1:

 

We gradually all arrive at the airport in glorious sunshine. It is then just a few kilometres to the lodge where the vehicles await. From here, we drive the 35 kilometres to Windhoek where we spend the night at a nice little guest house. We take a taxi to Joe’s Beerhouse for dinner. After the meal, we take a look at the map and our anticipation for the journey ahead grows.

 

 

Day 2:

 

After a leisurely, hearty breakfast, we set off on our journey in a northerly direction. The roads are still very good, which allows us to familiarise ourselves with the Amaroks and to get used to driving on the left. After around 100 kilometres, we leave the main road and drive through the Erindi Private Game Reserve where we decide to stop off for lunch. While the buffet certainly looks great, the giraffes, crocodiles and little hippo are far more exciting. We “feed” our cameras with pictures, indulge in a tasty lunch and delight at arriving in the very midst of Africa so quickly.

The route continues along good Namibian dirt tracks, past undulating hills to the dinosaur footprints near Kalkfeld. After a short stroll in the sultry Namibian heat and countless further pictures, we hit a dark weather front that accompanies us all the way to Otjiwarongo. Only a few drops of rain fall, but the air is heavy when we arrive at the hotel. The pool and a cool beer provide refreshment before we head for dinner.

 

 

Day 3:

 

To experience a little dust and sand beneath our tyres, we head south before turning east towards the Waterberg Plateau.

On this beautiful shimmering red mountainside, we pass countless termite hills, cattle and game farms, observe dung beetles rolling balls, and thoroughly enjoy our tour. Our first longer stop is at Hoba Meteorite. It is really very impressive that this over 60-ton iron-rich rock fell to earth here over 80,000 years ago.

We lunch in Grootfontein, and purchase typical Namibian cuisine from the supermarket counter and cool drinks, which are almost more important than the food in these temperatures.

We gradually leave populated Namibia behind us, and head for the border with Botswana. We cross the first veterinary control fences and reach Tsumkwe in the early afternoon. While refuelling, a number of elderly women from the San minority, the indigenous people of Namibia, offer us home-made jewellery for sale.

 

Day 4:

 

Off we set for the border! In many maps and travel guides, it is marked as a border crossing for people of Namibian or Botswanan nationality only. We researched in advance though, and were pleased to establish that this is not the case. We are able to rapidly cross at this small border checkpoint without any problems. The border officers are very friendly and even pleased to have something to do. Our journey then continues along the veterinary cordon fence that we have meanwhile become accustomed to. On the Botswanan side of the border, the roads are considerably worse from the outset. Sandy, significantly less frequented, often with high grass between the tracks. This immediately gets our adventurer hearts beating faster. Time and time again, fallen trees block our route, which we must simply drive around. We often first have to guess the route, then even come across a route that is not even marked on any map. Thus we reach the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the holy Tsodilo Hills without any major detours. We marvel at the centuries-old rock paintings of rhinoceroses, antelope, human figures and elephants.

The day’s route then leads to Shakawe, where Alina and Max even encounter an elephant at the roadside. We refuel the vehicles and make our way to our fabulously located lodge directly beside the Okavango River.

 

 

Day 5:

 

We enjoy a relaxed start to the day and congratulate birthday girl, Alina. Today is our organisation day. We drive on tarmacked roads to Maun to apply for permits for the national parks and to obtain supplies. After lunch, we head for Ghanzi where we completely refuel the vehicles and fill the reserve tanks again before our trip into the Kalahari Desert tomorrow. We stay overnight in an idyllic location where we are accommodated in pleasant safari tents.

 

 

Day 6:

 

Today we set off on an adventure! After our obligatory egg breakfast (scrambled, fried or omelette), we hit the road. We travel bumpy trails and pass through what feels like 1,000 barriers and over endless gratings. The route is arduous and in part completely overgrown. The road marked on the map has been travelled so little recently that we only make very slow progress. We decide to take a small detour to be able to travel faster and to allow the vehicles’ paintwork the chance to survive our trip.

We keep an eye out for animals through the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, and spot countless oryxes as well as smaller and larger herds of springbok time and time again.

We search for a shady tree to cool off under during our lunch break. It is over 40°C, and although the tranquillity and air are truly fascinating, we decide to continue on. Our destination for the day is a pretty lodge on the northern edge of the game reserve. We arrive in the late afternoon and move into our safari tents. A little time then even remains for a game drive on the farm.

We enjoy dinner around a campfire and are treated to delicious impala steak beneath Botswana’s impressive starry skies.

How lucky we are!

 

 

Day 7:

 

We get up unusually early: departure is at 6:30 a.m. as the Central Kalahari Game Reserve is on the programme for today’s day trip.

We once again drive along the veterinary control fence, and are all the more delighted when we finally reach the park. We must now keep our eyes peeled and look out for lions! We drive a total of almost 200 kilometres through the park but unfortunately do not spot a single lion. However, we do see oryxes, springbok, kudus, meerkats, jackals, desert foxes, giraffes, gnus, and even more oryxes. So, all in all, a successful day even without seeing any lions! We leave the park again in the late afternoon and drive the final kilometres to Rakops at sunset. Upon arriving, we refuel the vehicles and move into our rooms at a basic motel.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 8:

 

Good morning, sunshine! Our night was so-so. But we are looking forward to breakfast and order the full works: eggs, sausage, beans, potatoes, bread and everything else that comes with it. Note to self: good things take time! We wait over an hour for our meal to then set off with renewed strength for the day ahead. Our destination: the Makgadikgadi salt pans. The route there is also very worth seeing. We travel through little forests, past villages and simple herdsmen’s huts. We cross the veterinary control line time and time again, which we could also very well do without. While we do not allow this to dampen our spirits, we are pleased when we finally reach the first salt pan and the convoy is able to accelerate to speeds of 60 km/h.

We reach Kubu Island at lunchtime. We seek out a large baobab tree and enjoy our lunch break in its shade while taking in the views over the simply endless expanse of the Sua Pan.

We continue on across the Sua Pan afterwards – and what fun it is! Despite the extreme drought, the current rainy season makes itself known. Sometimes the ground is remarkably soft – too soft even, and one of our vehicles gets stuck. Luckily it is always only short sections, meaning we are able to use one of the other vehicles to pull it out. The exhilarating journey across the salt pans can then continue – yippee!

In the afternoon, we reach the Nata Lodge in Nata, our final destination for the day. We bring the afternoon to a pleasant close, and enjoy a relaxed dinner together.

 

 

Day 9:

 

Today’s destination is Hunters’ Road. It is described in the travel guide as epic. Two to four days should be planned to cover its entire length. This secluded and pretty route passes directly along the border between Botswana and Zimbabwe. Contrary to our expectations, it is relatively wide and far less challenging than expected.

We pass many idyllic waterholes, spot many more elephant trails, zebras and antelope, but above all experience some beautiful scenery. Contrary to what we have been told, the northern section of the route turns out to be more challenging than the southern section. We still make good headway though. On the way to today’s destination of Kasane, we are even able to observe a large herd of elephants at the roadside. Upon arriving at our accommodation, we enjoy a sundowner whilst taking in the views over the Chobe River, and bring a superb day to a pleasant close.

 

 

Day 10:

 

Today is our day for resting or other leisure pursuits. Some of the group embark on a day trip to Victoria Falls, and Wennemar is able to marvel at a huge herd comprising over 100 elephants during his boat trip through Chobe National Park. We regroup for dinner, report on our experiences, and look forward to what still lies ahead.

 

 

Day 11:

 

We set off at 6 a.m. and drive through Chobe National Park. A wonderful route leads directly beside the river. We spot hippopotamuses, buffaloes, monkeys, sea eagles and even a lion amidst a large group of tourist-filled Toyotas. Unfortunately, he disappears again so quickly that the last vehicle in our convoy misses him. We enjoy the morning amidst this stunning scenery before setting off for the southern section of Chobe National Park. We pass through the mopane forests of the Chobe along narrow tracks, and Volker wonders where the thousands of elephants that can supposedly be found here actually are. We spot countless traces, but where are all the elephants hiding?! We eventually come upon a large herd comprising what must have been 40 elephants at a waterhole, and are enchanted by the sight.

After a somewhat adventurous river crossing, we have lunch beneath a baobab tree before continuing on again. The route proves rather challenging. Besides metre-high grass, there are also countless wild animals. We see hundreds, if not thousands (☺) of zebras, gnus, giraffes and elephants. Not to mention the antelope.

Overwhelmed by these impressions, we leave the Chobe National Park and continue on a few kilometres in the Moremi National Park. Upon arriving at Third Bridge Camp, we move into our idyllically-located tents and look forward to an evening barbecue around the campfire. What a privilege – to spend a night beneath the stars in the midst of “wild Africa”.

 

 

Day 12:

 

We struggle to get up early. For we must already set off at 6 a.m. to enjoy the morning atmosphere in the Okavango Delta and perhaps spot another lion. The scenery is simply idyllic despite the relatively little water. It proves enough for vehicles to get stuck though. We manage this twice this morning on our trip along the Okavango River.

Back at our camp, we enjoy a leisurely breakfast before setting off for Maun, the final destination on this XWORLD stage. We once again marvel at the flora and fauna, and enjoy the journey through this Africa, which is as beautiful as in the picture books.

Upon arriving in Maun, we enjoy a relaxed afternoon and evening, and allow the experiences of the past few days to sink in.

 

 

Day 13:

 

After a final egg breakfast together, it is already time to say our goodbyes – with smiles because we had such a wonderful trip and tears because our time together has come to an end.

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