XWORLD AFRICA tour diary Stage 9

Day 1:

After a night flight and transfer in Johannesburg, we land in Maun shortly after 2 p.m. and take charge of the Amaroks at the airport. Because we want to get out into nature as soon as possible, we resolve to split up. While some of the group take care of the vehicles, others go to buy supplies for the coming days or to obtain permits for the national parks.

We then set off in a southerly directly and set up camp beside a cluster of trees in the middle of nowhere shortly before sunset.

Day 2:

After a cosy evening around the campfire, today we want to travel further into the Central Kalahari, one of the areas in southern Africa furthest from civilisation. Unfortunately, our planned fuel stop does not have any petrol left, which means we must return to Maun to fully refill all the tanks there. Despite this setback, we still make it to Tsau Gate, the northern entrance to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, by sunset. The friendly rangers even allow us to stay at the campsite beside the entrance for free.

Day 3:

We arise early – after all, the early morning is the best time for animal spotting. Unfortunately the park rangers oversleep, meaning we set off slightly later than planned. During the drive, we continuously scan our surroundings for wildlife and are rewarded with our first sightings of gazelles and giraffes on the pans. It is normally rainy season at this time of the year, and the lush vegetation attracts vast herds of animals to the Kalahari. This year, however, very little rain has fallen. Everything has dried up and turned brown. It will be a tough battle for survival in the Kalahari this year.

Day 4:

We drive to the edge of the Okavango Delta that same night. At breakfast, we discover that a herd of elephants must have passed directly through our camp that night – as indicated not only by fresh prints but also by huge elephant droppings! We continue south through the park to Third Bridge. The diversity of wildlife here is unbelievable. It also appears to have rained: huge puddles and sections of mud make for an exciting drive. One of the Amaroks sinks into deep mud in a seemingly harmless channel and it takes several attempts with the tow rope to draw it back out onto firm ground.

We leave the park shortly before sunset and search for a spot to set up camp on the banks of Khwai River.

An idyllic community campground lies directly beside the river. On the way there, we pass five mighty elephants stood at the roadside. The campground workers light up the trees to keep the leopards at bay and advise us to remain alert at night.

Day 5:

We had barely retired to our tents when a hyena comes to snuffle at the camp and our tents. This was certainly a little disconcerting! The next day, we travel along narrow trails beside Khwai River, stopping off to watch a hippo and bull elephant bathe.

We take the main road south, however the local tectonics appear to have changed somewhat: a small lake now lies where the road once led. After a little searching, we discover a trail to detour around this.

In the afternoon, we arrive at Rileys Hotel in Maun. A shower can be so wonderful after a few days in the bush!

Day 6:

Time has simply flown: the plane back to the German winter already awaits. This certainly wasn’t our last trip to Botswana though ...